Embark on a fascinating journey into the history of cricket’s most storied contest—the Ashes—and discover an episode that highlights the quirky, passionate spirit of the game. But here’s where it gets controversial: some stories from cricket’s past challenge modern expectations and reveal a different side of legendary figures. Want to know more? Keep reading.
The Ashes series delves deep into the rivalry between England and Australia, renowned for its rich history and fierce competition. An upcoming feature series and a set of podcasts on BBC Sounds aim to peel back the layers of this legendary contest, with full interviews and detailed coverage leading up to the first Test match in Perth on 21 November. This longstanding rivalry transcends mere sport—it’s a pilgrimage wrapped in distance, tradition, and national pride. With Australia and England separated by roughly 10,000 miles, the series embodies cricket’s status as an epic cross-continental saga.
Recent England captain Ben Stokes and his team of 2025-26 faced the Australian crowd’s hostility and media blitz the minute they arrived. Stokes’ face graced the front page of The West Australian upon landing in Perth—an illustration of the intense scrutiny and emotional atmosphere that accompany Ashes tours.
Despite the hostile welcome, the modern players enjoy the luxury of travel—luxurious airport lounges, business-class seats, and comfortable accommodations—far removed from the shipping voyages of yesteryear. However, for past generations, traveling to Australia for the Ashes meant weeks at sea, traveling by boat, which many considered both a hardship and an adventure.
In fact, the last England squad to make the journey by ship in the 1962-63 tour found the experience to be something quite special. David Larter, then a young fast bowler, recalls it as a delightful adventure. At 85 years old now, he describes the voyage aboard the RMS Marylebone Cricket Club’s ship, The Canberra, as a memorable period of camaraderie. The MCC had arranged for first-class travel, blending wealthy tourists and players alike, creating an environment ripe for bonding.
Larter reminisces, "Being on a grand ocean liner like that was an incredible experience, offering a lifestyle that was out of this world. We weren’t just passengers; we were a close-knit unit by the time we arrived in Perth." Compared to earlier, more arduous journeys, the 1962-63 trip was relatively short—around ten days at sea, after flying partway to Aden, where they linked up with their vessel.
At just 22, Larter was a lively-paced bowler, tall at 6 feet 7 inches, capable of generating challenging bounce. Having debuted in first-class cricket just two years prior for Northamptonshire, he balanced working in an insurance office with his cricket ambitions. Surrounded by cricket legends—Ted Dexter, Colin Cowdrey, Ray Illingworth, Fred Trueman, and Brian Statham—Larter’s opportunity to be part of the England team was a significant milestone.
England’s goal was to reclaim the Ashes, having lost 2-1 on home soil in 1961. Interestingly, well before the first Test starting on 30 November, the team assembled in London two months earlier, at the end of September, to prepare for the long voyage.
During the voyage, the players’ days were filled with activities to stay fit and their spirits high. Larter recalls indulging in the ship’s excellent cuisine—"I’ve never eaten so well for such a sustained period," he says. The crew often brought around trolley after trolley of food, contributing to a festive atmosphere.
To maintain fitness, the players engaged in morning exercises, badminton, weight training, and jumping drills. The team’s management even took a creative turn when they invited Gordon Pirie, a renowned British athlete and 1956 Olympic silver medalist over 5,000 meters, to organize a workout. Pirie, dressed in shorts, suggested running around the boat—an amusing but effective way to stay in shape, as Larter admits, despite the long ship’s corridors.
Not everyone was keen on such vigorous activity, especially Fred Trueman. The legendary fast bowler had bowled over 1,100 overs during the English season and firmly believed that cricket itself was the best form of fitness. "Fred had just finished a tough summer and refused to run around the boat," Larter explains. Trueman’s stance was clear: playing cricket was how he kept fit; running on a boat was unnecessary—and perhaps insulting—to a man of his caliber.
The voyage was also a cultural voyage for Larter. Down below, he mingled with emigrants seeking new beginnings in Australia, and up top, he rubbed shoulders with wealthy travelers. The warmest reception, he notes, was from those downstairs—young Australians eager to start fresh abroad—and he enjoyed quiet moments in a few good pubs, sharing pints with new acquaintances.
The journey wasn’t straightforward, as England warmed up by altering their travel plans mid-way—stopping in Sri Lanka to play a game in Colombo. Larter vividly remembers going out to bowl in his first match abroad, only to fall flat on his face, losing his footing due to seasickness and disorientation—"I couldn’t get my land legs!" he laughs. That match was a memorable eye-opener, made even more remarkable by the British Army, who hosted a lively beach barbecue—a surreal experience for a small-town lad from Suffolk.
A notable figure on the tour was Bernard Fitzalan-Howard, the 16th Duke of Norfolk, who served as tour manager. Larter shares that respecting his royal status was instinctive. The Duke’s knowledge of cricket surprised many, and he often invited players for dinners, extending a royal courtesy that underscored the formalness of the tour. The Duke’s presence, however, wasn’t universally appreciated—Fred Trueman, among others, found the distractions distracting. In addition, the tour included figures like Reverend David Sheppard and the model Susan Dexter, wife of Ted Dexter, which stirred media coverage of social events and racing interests rather than cricket.
Today, England is preparing for a single warm-up match before the series, contrasting sharply with the extensive fixtures played during the 1962-63 tour—nine matches across five states over six weeks, totaling 22 matches in five months, in addition to the five Tests.
Larter’s memories of Australia are vivid and warm. His tour fee of £1,250 (more than £23,000 today) opened doors—he made numerous connections, nearly deciding to settle there. He recalls Christmas on the beach during the tour—an almost surreal experience for an Englishman used to traditional winter festivities. Yet, despite all these adventures and the promise of future opportunities, Larter’s own on-field opportunities in Tests were limited. The team’s bowling attack was stacked with seasoned performers, and although England took an early lead by winning in Melbourne, the series was ultimately drawn, with Australia retaining the Ashes.
For Larter, the disappointment was palpable, yet he remained optimistic. The tour stretched into New Zealand, where he played all three Tests and took seven wickets in Auckland, helping England to a 3-0 series victory—an achievement he remembers with pride. "I felt like I had proof—'see, I can compete on this stage,'" he says.
As his international career wound down in the following years, Larter played just a handful more Tests, the last being marred by a career-ending ankle injury during the 1965-66 tour. He eventually stepped away from cricket, choosing to focus on his father’s haulage business. Now residing in mid-Wales with his wife, Thelma, he treasures keepsakes from his cricketing days—a ceremonial England cap, a team photo from the 1962-63 tour, and slides of moments aboard The Canberra.
Reflecting on his journey, Larter calls it 'an unbelievable experience'—one that, despite not ending with Test caps, gave him memories he cherishes deeply. His story is a testament to a different era of cricket—one filled with adventure, camaraderie, and the unpredictable magic of travel. But here’s the question for you: do you think modern cricket’s focus on convenience and commercialism diminishes the soul of the game—like trading footloose ship voyages for sterile flights? Do share your thoughts below.
